When
there’s word on The Cotswold grapevine of a newly opened pub or restaurant, it
often means it’s a place worth visiting. And for the past few months, there has been
one establishment that everybody seems to be talking about - The Chequers, in
Churchill. This lovely little place has been acquired by The Lucky Onion Group,
who have already taken The Cotswolds by storm with The Wheatsheaf Inn, in
Northleach, a favourite country haunt for many of us, and The Tavern in Cheltenham,
a trendy eatery serving great food with an authentic twist and where you can
also listen to Winston Churchill’s wartime speeches on a trip to the bathroom.
Based
in the heart of the Cotswold village of Churchill, near Chipping Norton, The
Chequers provides all the traditional, warming characteristics you expect from a
country pub, with a welcoming atmosphere from the minute you step through the
door. Instantly you are greeted by a big open fireplace surrounded by cosy
armchairs and old books, where the locals are gathered enjoying a pint of
locally brewed ales and ciders, which include the popular ‘Dunkerton’s’. Then
it’s on into the restaurant, which again, possesses a range of homely
characteristics - beautiful chandeliers
hanging from the ceilings amongst the historic beams, and a collection of
dining tables surrounded by more
bookshelves and beautiful artwork, all creating a relaxed and warming ambiance
which is reflected amongst fellow diners.
Once
seated, we were shown the wine list and, given the strong selection of
whites and
reds on offer, this took a few minutes to study. Having picked the Petit Clos
Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from New Zealand, which came chilled in an old milk can - a
quirky element and one of several signatures marking The Lucky Onion Group, -
we got stuck into examining the menu, whilst nibbling on freshly warmed bread
offered on arrival – another of many little touches that set the standard of
what was yet to come.
When
it comes to food, if you’re anything like me, you’ll find that food envy is one
of the most annoying things on earth (amongst Bruce Forsyth and awaiting the
next series of Downton Abbey).
There
is nothing worse than choosing a dish and then craving that of your fellow
diner. I have learnt, the only way to overcome this whilst avoiding the threat
of obesity or bankruptcy, is to go for dinner with friends who are all about
sharing. Whilst studying the menu, it quickly occurred to me that food envy at
The Chequers was inevitable with all their dishes being appealing – something
that, for me, rarely occurs. Having already spied the Twice Baked Cheddar
soufflé with Spinach and Grain Mustard, a signature favourite of mine at The
Wheatsheaf, I went with something different, though not before persuading my friend
to choose the soufflé with the intention of swiping a cheeky mouthful of creamy
cheesey goodness to keep me satisfied until my next visit. Though when my
starter of Braised Oxtail and Roasted Scallops with creamed potato appeared,
all thoughts of swiping soufflés vanished as here in front of me was comfort
food - fine dining style. The combination of textures and flavours from the
sweet scallops, creamy mashed potatoes with the flaky succulent oxtail took me
to a place beyond satisfaction and although I wouldn’t have thought of putting
these ingredients together, in the words
of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, this was definitely ‘three good things on a
plate’.
For
my main course, being someone who likes to indulge in all things seasonal, I
finally decided on Spatchcock Partridge, cooked on a Josper Grill, served with
Soft Polenta and Ceps. I agonised over the decision for a while as there was
such a wide range to choose from including Confit Duck Cassoulet, Roast Langoustines
with Garlic Butter and Oven Baked Sea Bream with Tomatoes, Basil and Anchovies,
not to mention a fantastic selection of steaks with a variety of sauces to
accompany. The partridge, I‘m told, was shot in Churchill by Pete, the General
Manager, the week before (you can’t get more local than that!) and the
combinations and style of food on this plate were influenced by the Italian’s
style of eating. This dish bought a whole new combination of flavours to my
palate, which places emphasis on the depth of flavour obtained through
simplicity of ingredients as well as method of cooking.
By
this point (and another bottle of wine down) we could just about find room for
dessert, though when you’re faced with a list that includes Hot Chocolate
Fondant, Raspberry and Almond Tart, Prune and Armagnac Fool as well as a good
Apple and Blackberry Crumble, you’ll find your stomach somehow manages to
produce a rumble. Our Hot Chocolate Fondant and Raspberry and Almond Tart both
served with vanilla ice cream were faultless and a perfect end to a fantastic
evening.
Overall,
I would say The Chequers, in Churchill is a must visit – a beautiful
setting – fine dining country style, fantastic food, knowledgeable, passionate
and friendly staff all in a warm, comforting environment. I’d say The Lucky
Onion Group have created another culinary haven.
The
Chequers, Churchill – 01608 659393
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