Kibou, Cheltenham
My love for sushi has grown stronger over
the past nine months, and this is before I’ve even had the opportunity to
fulfil a lifelong ambition to visit its native country of Japan. All gratitude
and praise for influencing my palate, which includes a new admiration for warm
sake (Japanese wine) and an improved skill in mastering the art of using
chopsticks, goes to Emma Graveney and her team at Kibou in Cheltenham. Having
opened their doors last August with very little advertising, word of this
fabulous restaurant soon got out, and they have taken the town’s dining scene
by storm ever since. Kibou has become one of the most talked about restaurants
in the area, reflecting the recognition they have rightly received for the
quality of food and the high standard of service that they offer to customers.
I first walked through their doors and
sampled the exciting menu on their first week of opening, and I’m pleased to
report that Kibou’s consistency to produce exquisite plates of food, using only
the freshest of ingredients, has never faltered. With an impressive selection
of dishes featuring all the classics such as nigiri, hosomaki and the popular
ISO roll, Head Chef Yu Wang has used his knowledge and passion for Japanese
cuisine to create his own flavoursome combinations. For those of you who are
new to sushi, Kibou is the place to go. With hand-drawn illustrations
representing each type of sushi positioned above the open-plan kitchen, as well
as recommendations from the friendly, knowledgeable staff, you will encounter
an experience that you won’t forget in a hurry.
With a warm plum sake in hand - my new
poison of choice with a deep, sweet flavour that shares a resemblance to sloe
gin - we tucked into the ultimate sushi experience. The starters began with
prawn tempura, soft shell crab, ebi stak (a fragrant Japanese version of prawn
toast), and pork gyozas - delightful little dumplings filled with succulent
pork and infused with vibrant Asian flavours. From the specials board, other luxurious
indulgences include monkfish tempura with a coriander dressing, and if you’re
feeling somewhat adventurous, there’s an offering of octopus on there too -
both of which are definitely worth a look in.
Following a gratifying feeling of
satisfaction and having politely fought over the last pork gyoza, we moved onto
the main course - and at Kibou you’re definitely not short of exciting
combinations to choose from. The Chef’s selection of sashimi is a dish of
refined beauty, which really sums up Kibou as a whole. Featuring tuna, salmon,
scallop, prawn, crab, kisu (a Japanese white fish), and ikura (salmon roe),
this is every inch a seafood lover’s dream. For meat lovers, the sirloin steak
teriyaki will bring a smile to your face with its authentic presence alone.
Cooked to personal preference (although I recommend you ask for it rare) and
infused with coriander, ginger, chili and lime, this dish gives an enjoyable
insight into the flavours of Japanese cuisine. Being a fan of Kibou’s prawn
tempura, the ebi katsu roll on the specials menu which features this succulent
favourite wrapped in sushi rice and topped with tuna and tobiko (flying fish
roe) sounded too good to resist and having polished off the plate with little
intention of sharing, I can only recommend that you do the same. I find the
menu here is reasonably priced, with starters ranging from £2.90 to £7.50, and
mains beginning at £3.20 and finishing at £15.00 – and matched against the
quality of each dish, you certainly get what you pay for. Notorious for having
eyes bigger than my stomach and with a menu full of affordable allurement,
Kibou is the only place where I deem my tendency to order the entire left side
of the menu acceptable. No judgment is passed, and if there is ever an occasion
where there might be leftovers, the lovely staff are always on hand to box them
up so you can relive the experience the very next day.
With good food and excellent service, the
only thing left to address is the atmosphere. Kibou only sits a few dozen
covers and may not be big in size, however this is no reflection of the
atmosphere you’ll find here. The dimmed lights and flickering candles create a
sense of intimacy, but with the likes of Paulo Nutini, Beyonce and even some
good old jazz music subtly playing in the background, there is a real positive
ambiance as diners relish in the ultimate experience given at Kibou.
Kibou
A: 18 Regent Street, Cheltenham, GL50 1HE
T: 01242 300 161
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